Rose Prunning Tips
Don Trotter
Hello fellow Earthlings and welcome to the rose garden. This is the first
of a five part series on rose care that comes just in time for your early
spring rose projects. In this first part we will be discussing types of
pruning techniques used by most rose growers and the types of roses that
usually receive pruning of this kind. So grab your pruning shears and let's
take a look at those roses.
Rose pruning is a simple process made complicated by all of the different
schools of thought on the topic. If you remember four things you will
always be a successful rose pruners, and your roses will be dazzling
examples of your prowess. The four not so secrets are:
1. Keep the center of the bush clear of growth, like a big vase or bowl.
2. Remove all dead or decayed growth.
3. Keep some shape to your garden roses, be gentle with the cuts.
4. Remove crossing branches in favor of the stronger growth.
If you try and follow these four directives, a finer quality rose bush will
certainly inhabit your garden spaces. When your finished pruning your roses
be sure to seal the cuts you've made that are larger than a quarter of an
inch in diameter. The best and the cheapest pruning sealer I have ever used
for roses is good old white glue. Yup, Elmer's is a great sealer for your
rose pruning projects. It dries clear, is flexible, and allows for natural
scar tissue to form below the cut. And it's cheap! Here are the types of
rose pruning most commonly used and the types of roses they are used on.
HARD PRUNING OR LOW PRUNING
Canes are cut back to three or four buds from the base or bud union. This
leaves short sturdy canes of about 4 to 5 inches long.
Hard pruning is recommended for newly planted bush roses of the hybrid tea,
grandiflora and floribunda tribes. Hard pruning is often used by growers to
produce show blooms for exhibition.
This method is not good for established garden roses and should not be
practiced. It can still be used to rejuvenated sickly plants and neglected
ones, but hard pruning is no longer accepted as correct pruning.
MODERATE OR MEDIUM PRUNING
Canes are cut back to about half of their length. Weaker stems are cut back
more depending on their location on the bush.
Moderate pruning is the accepted method for treatment of established garden
roses. Floribundas, hybrid teas, grandifloras, and tree roses all respond
best to this pruning practice. If the roses are fed well, you can expect
show quality roses on beautifully shaped bushes.
LIGHT OR HIGH/LONG PRUNING
Canes are cut back to about two thirds of their length. This means that
after removal of unwanted wood the remaining stems are merely tipped.
Light pruning is not generally recommended as it will produce spindly
bushes and if practiced year after year will result in an early blooming
bush with poor quality flowers.
HYBRID TEA ROSES
Newly Planted
Hard Pruning is required to build up a strong root system and to stimulate
the growth of sturdy, fresh canes from close to the base of the bush.
Established Roses (12 months or older)
Moderate pruning is the best method for general garden display. For show
blooms hard pruning is sometimes used. For very vigorous varieties light
pruning is recommended.
FLORIBUNDA ROSES
Newly Planted
Where hybrid teas should be hard pruned to a height of between 4-6 inches,
floribundas prefer a cane length of 6 inches
Established Roses (12 months or older)
Moderate pruning is the best way to prune floribundas, but some old stems
are hard pruned to within a few inches of the ground, while new canes which
arise from the area of the base last year are only lightly pruned. This
method of varying stem height will ensure a long period of continuous bloom.
STANDARD OR TREE ROSES
Newly Planted
Hard pruning is recommended, but should be less drastic than pruning for
new bush roses. Stem/cane length should be about 8 inches long.
Established Roses (12 months or older)
Moderate pruning is best to form a properly balanced head which will
produce plenty of flowers. Hard pruning should be avoided on tree roses
because the vigorous canes will affect the shape of the plant and make it
less attractive.
MINIATURE AND SHRUB ROSES
Newly Planted
No pruning is required other that the elimination of any dead or broken
canes that may have occurred in transit.
Established Roses (12 months or older)
Very little pruning is necessary except for eliminating dead and sickly
growth. Use scissors on miniatures instead of your pruning shears.
CLIMBING ROSES
Newly Planted
No pruning is necessary other than removal of dead canes and tips.
Established Roses (12 Months or older)
Little pruning is required apart from the removal of dead and distressed
wood. Withered shoot tips with spent bloom on them should also be removed.
In special cases such as very vigorous hybrid teas, climbers and shrub
roses, light pruning is the only recommended way to cut these plants.
Rose pruning should be a simple and easy process with rewards well in
excess of the amount of labor required. Next time we will be discussing
disease control without resorting to potentially harmful chemical
fungicides. See you in the Garden!
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